Trekking to Everest Base Camp

[Traveler]

1st day: Lukla (2800m) - Pakding (2660m)
2nd day: Pakding - Namche Bazaar (3440m.)
3rd day: Namche Bazaar - Tami (3750 m.)
4th day: Tami - Namche Bazaar
5th day: Namche Bazaar - Tengboche (3800m)
6th day: Tengboche - Dingboche (4360 m.)
7th day: Dingboche - Dugla (4620 m.)
8th day: Tukla - Lobuche (4930 m.)
9th day: Lobuche - Pangboche (3860 m.)
10th day: Pangboche - Mong pass (4000 m.)
11th day: Mong - Namche Bazaar
12th day: Namche Bazaar - Lukla - Kathmandu

[Traveler]

Kathmandu-Lukla. Tara Air airplane

Lukla airfield, sloping and very short

November 25 flew in a small plane from Kathmandu to Lukla, and immediately ended up in a backpacking anthill. Some unhurriedly collected their cargo and prepared for long passages up, others calmly waited for their flights with the air of satisfied pilgrims who had learned some truth that those who had arrived had only to learn. We stood on the threshold of the unknown, surrounded by huge mountains, and the excitement of the upcoming contact with the unknown pushed us forward.
Lukla met us with beautiful sunny weather and mountain coolness. In anticipation of an interesting journey, we left the airport building and headed to the center of Lukla.
The central street of the village was the Trail to Everest, on both sides of which there was a very developed tourist infrastructure: shops with equipment and mountain sportswear, shoes. Cafe adapted for white travelers with Wi-Fi. And a lot of loggias, guest houses and hotels for overnight stays. We had lunch in one of the many cafes in the center, delicious momo with potatoes, and tea with a pie, we used the Internet there, and moved on. We are thinking of stopping in any village where our feet can reach, and in which there are loggias with a canteen.

caravan road

views that make the soul exhausted by big cities rejoice

The mountains!

We walk along an excellent paved caravan road. Caravans of yaks and donkeys go along it in all directions. As well as Sherpas, and tourists in large numbers, with and without porters. This number of tourists was unexpected. I hoped that on the eve of winter there would be fewer people.

porter. a thick plywood package cannot be lifted.

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prayer stones

natural temple, near Phakding. stupas must be bypassed clockwise!

our loggia, very high quality - I recommend

On this day we decide to stop in Phakding. We settle in a cozy "Namaste" loggia - a bathroom inside the room, with a really hot shower - a luxury. And the hostess here is just lovely, she laughs all the time. And he cooks well, and keeps everything in exemplary cleanliness. For all this happiness - 400 rupees per room (including shower), plus ate for 1500 rupees, approximately.
November 26 have done a hard (for a lazy person like me) but wonderful journey. Elevation difference, approximately 1 km. I had to overcome a considerable number of suspension bridges, pieces 5-6. Some of them were long, others were at dizzying heights, but all are quite new. Suspension bridges are built by a Swiss company and this inspires confidence in their reliability.

we leave Pakding by a suspension bridge, which I am terrified of. I walk along it, shaking, and closing my eyes, and the infection sways!

on the way Pakding-Namche Bazaar

Sherpas of the expedition gather their camp

beautiful views on the way to Namche Bazaar

outruns a caravan of mules and donkeys

on the way Pakding-Namche Bazaar

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After the last creepy suspension bridge, a long, and very steep serpentine up the forest began. On a great road, by the way. Somewhere in the middle of this road there is a rest area with a cool view of Everest. Everyone there admires him for a long time, creating pandemonium, and local enterprising ladies sell tangerines to enthusiastic lovers.

one of many suspension bridges

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Permits are sold here. for those who did not purchase in Kathmandu

Buddhist prayer flags over the mountains

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In front of the Namche Bazaar, they check the permits that we bought today in Monjo (for $ 20). After this check-post, the lower buildings of Namche begin. And we, on our last legs, but in an excellent mood, climbed up. How did we finally reach the legendary Namche, which until then had only been seen in photos or in films.

Namche Bazaar - Himalayan metropolis

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We dragged ourselves right up to the Moon-light loggia, in the upper part of the village, where we stopped for the night. The food here is not bad and there is good light in the room, you can read a little. At this altitude it is already cold, I had to sleep in a sleeping bag and thermal underwear. Room - 200 rupees, shower - 300, ate two rupees for 2000. We had to go down to the bazaar and shops, then go back up, which is good for acclimatization.
November 27 - we are going to Tami. Very, very beautiful path. I need to do this path at least once in the future. This is what I like. Forests, mountains, villages, Buddhist stupas, grazing yaks and sheep, good locals. And the height is not yet so deadly, exhausting, as in Lobuche.

the magic of the Himalayas near Namche

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magic trail in Tame

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First, the road led to the helipad of Namche Bazaar, from there the entire Himalayan metropolis is visible at a glance, as well as the luxurious snowy peaks of five to six thousand meters around. Then the road led through a magical forest, in which we met large important birds with purple plumage.

in one of Tami, Tamo, Tama we met such a handsome Yachonian

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many prayer stones along the way

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and pacifying stupas: Om mani padme hum!

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We rested for a long time at the stupa on the top of the hill. All sorts of fatigue, petty squabbles of the mind dissolve in the universal peace. Then there were several pretty Nepalese villages - different Tame and Tamo.

The Himalayas, next to our goal today - Tami

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in Tami

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in Tami

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In Tami, we stopped at the first loggia that came across, except for us there were no more guests. After a good hot shower and a snack, we walked to the monastery at 4000 m. We felt strange, it was impossible to go fast. Everything is perceived and felt quite differently than on the plain. Here you feel the power of nature, and closeness to the Gods, probably ).

back to the metropolis

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back to the metropolis

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November 28 - we return to Namche Bazaar, about 5 hours walk, including 20 minutes. respite. We continue to enjoy the world around us. On this day, we decided to spend the night in the Khumbu resort, in a very warm room. All day we wandered around the neighborhood of Namche, everyone also enjoyed the surrounding reality. Since the body has already adapted a little to the height, there is some fantastically beautiful and unusual reality around. A complete break from the usual life on the plain, in a big city.

trail magick

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November 29 - we go along the traverse path in Tengboche. My friend feels bad - the classic "miner". We go very slowly. The trail is amazing, as are the views from it. Feelings like in transurfing - "the soul sings, and the mind rubs its hands with satisfaction." The only thing is, the body is a little junk. Legs are wadded; head like a woodpecker after a hard day's work.

trail magick

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Himalayan views

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We stop for the night by the river before starting the ascent to Tengboche. Here the height is several hundred meters lower than in Tengboche. We hope that after a "lower" overnight stay in the morning you will feel better.
November 30- What happened, it really became much easier, and we dragged our material bodies forward and upward, and there Tengboche. This is another place where I am drawn to return someday. Buddhist monastery, stupas and prayer flags on the hills, majestic mountains, universal peace - that's what Tengboche is for me. We spent the day climbing the hills to the stupas. And the evening in religious monastic ceremonies. Which purify the soul and calm the mind, yes, and are simply interesting in essence. But before visiting the temple, do not forget to put on the thickest and warmest socks you can find. Since at the entrance to the temple you need to take off your shoes, and inside it is very, very chilly.

we are already at the level of the clouds

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Buddhist gate. Thyangboche

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one of the restaurants along the trail

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We have already adapted to the height, we feel normal at 3800. What constantly surprises me in any hikes-walks in nature ... here sometimes you physically feel exhausted, tired, but your soul is good. Just the opposite of how you feel the world in the city.
December 1 - in the morning we leave with the intention to reach Periche or Dingboche. The trail, as always, is beautiful, not without some ups and downs. A significant event of this walking day for me was overcoming the bridge at a terrible height above the river.
Gradually, as we approach Dingboche (we decide to go there after all), the trees become smaller. And so, step by step, we get into the tundra. There are already only small bushes, and withered grass, but the mountains around are so ... there are simply no words.

tundra vegetation

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acclimatization in the vicinity of Dingboche

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in the loggia

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In Dingboche we find a good loggia, a room - 200 rupees, a shower 400 rupees. As always, after a short rest, we wander through the surrounding hills until dark, like restless souls. Although physically very tired. However, such descents and ascents of several hundred meters contribute to acclimatization, and the beauty around is divine. So you need to overcome your indestructible laziness.

we go with a caravan of yaks

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December 2 - we are going to Lobuche. Although we are not sure whether it is necessary to spend the night there that day. It would be necessary to get a good acclimatization and somehow avoid the "gornyashka". We wander for 2 hours to Dukla, we are wandering. The legs are cast iron and the head is heavy.
Although the distance from Dingboche is not great. But the significant height and the fatigue accumulated over the past walking days affect. In Dugla we rest for a long time in the sun and decide to spend the night here. Dugla is a few guesthouses, nestled on a small plateau among the stone placers. There is no vegetation here, except for stunted grass. Only one of the gestures works.

relaxation in Tukla

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acclimatization

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Basically, tourists in Tukla-Dugla (as it is written at the entrance to the cafe) only rest, eat and scratch further up or down. We spend the night here that day only we and another German, who came in the evening from the Gokyo track. In this place cut off from civilization, we lived a bright day that left its mark on the soul. The guys working in the loggia were very pleasantly surprised, God bless them. They not only fed deliciously, and heated the stove hot, where we all warmed ourselves, but had heartfelt conversations. But they also played some ancient musical instruments... strange music that goes so well with this strange reality that surrounds us.

small stupa

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December 3 - we're going to have a tough rock climb today. At this altitude, this is a significant obstacle. I trudge very slowly, leaning on sticks (a very, very useful thing for a track). I try not to look up, but how much is left to crawl to the top. And I look under my feet, and on the sides - endless stones and mountains.

дорога в Лобуче

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Finally, we get to a flat plateau where we can take a breath and devour dried fruits.

on the plateau

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There are memorial plaques everywhere in memory of the fallen conquerors of Everest. I don't even know how to deal with this fact. A rare person can reach the summit without oxygen tanks and outside help. It seems to me that only such an ascent can be allowed. the rest let them be content with what they are capable of without outside help.
Finally we reach Lobuche - a decent height, lunar landscapes, a large cluster of loggias, a lot of tourists. The head hurts .... the body is wadded. We find a good room, which the hostess offers for free, because the food is very expensive.

eatery

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After a little rest, we go towards Gorak-shep, we are going to climb as high as the body, exhausted by the unusual height, will allow. And all around are lunar landscapes... divine silence... consciousness altered by height and proximity to the gods ). We slowly wander among the stones, suddenly the silence is broken by some alien sounds. We listen, we peer; Turns out it's not a collective hallucination. These sounds are made by Himalayan, large, cute birds roaming in a flock among the stones. They are not afraid of people, we passed very close, and did not frighten them. Completely alien birds.

alien chicken

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near Lobuche

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near Lobuche

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Khumbu Glacier

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Then we had a steep, but not very long climb up the trail. After which we went to the traverse, from which Kala Patar and the Khumbu glacier are visible. The glacier is striking in its power. However, like everything around us here. The silence is indescribable ... rockfalls are occasionally heard, and the rumble of distant avalanches.

[Traveler]

December 4 leaving Lobuche. We feel satisfactorily, much better than yesterday.

way down

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and views along the way

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Quite quickly we reach Perice. That is, they went back the other way, and there is no point in climbing back into Dingboche on the way back. I liked this option - on the way to Everest, spend the night in Dingboche, and return back through Periche. In Perich we ate apple oatmeal, and rushed on. With each dropped hundred meters of strength, everything increased. My friend, who was barely dragging his feet yesterday, today regretted that we did not go to the Gokyo track.

caravans go down

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caravans go down

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leaving the tundra vegetation zone

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This lovely hostess had scrambled eggs with tea and pancake on the way to Pangboche

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We were going again in Tengboche, but somehow intuitively accidentally stopped in Pangboche. In an excellent loggia, refueled by Sherpas. Which turned out to be the hottest shower, the warmest room, the most pleasant hostess, and really delicious food. Boiled momo was just wonderful, I can not emphasize this fact.

our lodge in Pangboche

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little yak

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December 5 looking at the map yesterday, we decided to go to Namche along the upper path. From our loggia we went up to the Pangboche monastery. Past the monastery to the left along the path we came to the source, from which this marvelous road to Namche begins.

trail start

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Start

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In some places it is quite wide, paved with stones. It appears to be well maintained. The traverse trail goes along rather steep slopes of hills, with slight descents and ascents. Where it becomes narrow, it is really dumb to go, literally over a bottomless abyss. Of course, only cowards like me feel that way. Brave guys scratch themselves and do not blink an eye. All the horrors are compensated by the divine views that this trail gives us.

I'm on the path of contemplation

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we contemplate the views, and our fear of heights. on the left you can see the main trail and the monastery of Tjangboche

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Oh

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our path over the abyss looks creepy from afar

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went down to the river

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On this day, we still had a deep descent to the river, and a significant ascent to Mong-la. There we found a nice loggia where we were the only guests. Rarely, who stops in Monge. Because from here to Namche is only 2-3 hours at a leisurely pace.

two cows

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December 6 we leave in the morning, frost on the ground. The trail still traverses the slope, but not as steep as yesterday. From it you can clearly see the lower path along which we walked in Lobuche.

Himalayan cities

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In an hour we come to Kumjung - a large, authentic, Himalayan settlement. Soon we climb the hills towering above Kumjung. Through them leads the way to Namche. I would wander in those hills slowly for days. Very luxurious views of the snowy peaks. Stupas and prayer flags are everywhere. And the trails... a lot of deserted quiet trails.

caravans go from Namche

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morning trail

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finally dawn

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Buddhists love the gate

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There we accidentally wandered to the Namche airport. And we watched the arrival and departure of a small plane.

Airfield at Namche Bazaar

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Himalayas

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once again came to Namche

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This time we stopped at a Tibet guest house, in the lower Namche-bezar, which we regretted very much later.
First, it was hellishly noisy. This noise was created by both the attendants and the host of expressive Spanish tourists who settled in a little later than us. Second, the food was disgusting. Yes, and in general the staff behaves rudely. Although it is possible that we were spoiled in other good loggias.
December 7 rushing to Lukla. My goal is to get where my feet will drag me. Because fatigue by this time has accumulated considerable. We got to Pakding, decided not to experiment and stay in the same loggia. My friend also went to the monastery. And after a hot shower, I sat with a book in the sun for half a day, and then continued the same lesson in a warm dining room.
December 8 we head to Lukla. By 12.00 we are already at the airport, where we were brought by a local helper. Where can we manage ourselves? At the airport, we were given boarding passes and took our backpacks in our luggage. But only God knew when our flight would be. It's damn cold in the waiting room, and we recklessly put our puffs in luggage.

the last suspension bridge before Lukla

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one of the most extreme airports in the world - Lukla. runway goes downhill

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Gradually, from the cold, we are greyhounds, and when there are no airplanes, we climb out onto the airfield - to bask in the sun. Nearby we notice a cart with our backpacks, and we get a jacket for me. Then a military man comes and drives us back into the dank hall. That day we flew to Kathmandu.